Changing Headlights with the Auto Repair Pro of Columbia SC

Replacing a Headlight

We are all looking to save money, especially on auto repairs.  For beginners or people not confident in their own home mechanic skills, deciding whether to take on an auto repair can be a difficult choice. 

Do it myself vs. Auto Repair Shop 

 

Some easy auto repair jobs can easily be completed by anyone with enough time and patience to read and follow basic tutorial instructions. Naturally, if you still lack confidence after seeing the instructions, you should always bring your vehicle to the auto repair shop for a professional to safely complete the job at hand.  Always remember: On the highway, lack of safety can cost lives, so it is always better to play it safe than be sorry!

All headlights will eventually burn out. Luckily, this is a pretty easy fix.  While you could pay to get this done for you, you really don’t have to.  Most of the halogen headlight systems out there today have bulbs that are easy to replace since they are loaded right into the back of the lens.

Step 1: Wiring Harness Removal

 

This is usually a no tools needed job.  With your hood opened and secured, do a quick check behind your burned out headlight to locate the bulb holder.  Coming out of it should be a trapezoid shaped plug with three wires. This is your the wiring harness, and you will have to remove this.  The plug is secured using either a metal clip, plastic catch, or in some cases, a screw cap.  With a metal clip, just pull it up and off.  Keep a good grip on it because if it drops, it will likely never be seen again.  With a plastic catch, there will be a little lever that extends from the top of the plug. Using your thumb, just depress the lever while pulling the plug out.  If happen to have a screw cap, simply unscrew the cap turning it counter-clockwise.

Step 2: Removing the Burned Out Headlight Bulb

 

With the wiring out of the way, you can now remove the old burned up headlight bulb. Holding the base (where your wiring harness had been plugged in) pull the bad bulb out. it should slide out pretty easily, but there may still be a few requiring you to rotate the bulb a little bit in order to release it.

Mechanic Tip: 

You really should handle the new bulb very carefully.  Be sure that you use a clean rag or cloth when touching the bulb.  If they touch the glass bulb, the oils in our skin can cause your new bulb to burn out VERY quickly. You should only touch the glass bulb when necessary and using a rag, tissue or cloth to prevent transferring these oils.

Step 3: Installing a New Headlight Bulb

 

Holding the bulb by only the plug end, insert it into the back of the headlight where you  just removed the old one.  Be sure it has been completely inserted and that your bulb’s rubber gasket is no longer visible.  Everything should now be lined up as it should be.

Step 4: Re-Securing your Headlight Wiring Harness

 

You’re now ready to plug the wiring harness back in.  Remember how simple it was to remove? Simply re-attach the plug and replace the clip, catch or screw top.  It is as easy as reversing the removal directions above.  Once that is all finished, you are too!  All that is left is to turn those lights on, stand back and admire your work!

Like I said earlier, if you lack confidence in your auto repair skills, do not attempt to perform auto repairs yourself.  Safety (should) always come first. If you don’t feel secure in your ability to make a repair, do not try it.  

For questions or for us to perform this auto repair for you, get in touch now and schedule your appointment.  Sanford’s Automotive Service cares about our customers: we are always here to serve all of your vehicle maintenance and auto repair needs.

Replace Your Fuel Tank Sending Unit with the Columbia SC Auto Repair Pro

A worn out fuel tank sending unit can cause any driver a headache.  While some will head in to a reputable auto repair shop or mechanic to have the work done, it isn’t always a necessity.  If you’re mechanically inclined and able to follow instructions, you can likely complete this job on your own.

Tools for the job

You will want to gather screwdrivers, both Phillips and flat head types, a hammer, open end wrenches, and the new fuel tank sending unit you will install.

 

Find Your Fuel Tank Sending Unit or Fuel Sender

In most vehicles, this isn’t as involved an auto repair as you might first think.  Start with your automobile’s manual.  The fuel tank sending unit is often positioned beneath the back seat, but it is still just as do-able if it is located under the carpet in your trunk.

 

Mechanic’s Safety Warning

ALWAYS start with disconnecting your negative battery cable!  This is done to ensure that no electrical sparks can occur.  You will be working in an extremely flammable area and MUST take all proper safety precautions.

 

How to Disconnect your Negative Battery Cable

Start with one of your wrenches on the outside nut of the negative battery cable.  You may need to place a second wrench on the opposite side as well.  Turn the nut counter-clockwise until approximately 1/16-inch from being off.  You should be able to get the cable loose with a slight twist.  If it is still stuck, you might want to try placing a flat head screwdriver into the gap above the bolt, and then gently pry it open.  Be sure that you DO NOT pull the terminal right up off the post.  This could result in serious injury. 

 

Accessing your Fuel Tank Sending Unit

The fuel tank sending unit or fuel sender is located on top of your auto’s fuel tank.  You usually access it by going under the rear seat of the car.  In some vehicles you will have to access the fuel tank by looking under the carpet in your trunk.  Once you have found your access point, you will find an access cover that is protecting the fuel tank sending unit.  The cover will most likely be secured by some screws.  You will start with lifting up either the back seat or carpet in the trunk.  Find the access cover described above.  Once you have found it, simply remove the screws securing it and remove the cover.  You are now looking at your fuel tank sending unit.

 

Removing your Faulty Fuel Tank Sending Unit

The fuel tank sending unit should have a wiring harness that is plugged in right on top.  Unplug the entire harness and just move it off to the side.  If you sending unit is secured by screws or bolts of some kind, you will need to remove those as well.

There are a couple of different ways you fuel sending unit may “lock” into place.  Many use the twist-lock type.  There will be visible notches around the edge.  You can put the tip of a flat head screwdriver into one of them and then tap it in a counter-clockwise direction.  Once it has rotated loose, you will need to very carefully remove it from the gas tank.  It will have a long rod with a float attached, so don’t just jerk it out.

 

Install a new Fuel Tank Sending Unit

All that is left now is to replace the old unit with your brand new fuel tank sending unit.  Follow the instructions backwards now to re-install all screws, nuts, bolts and access covers along the way.  Don’t forget to plug the wiring harness back into the new unit. 

And that is it!  You are done and once again are ready to roll.  If you have read through this tutorial and do not feel 100% comfortable with performing this type of auto repair, stop now.  We would be happy to schedule an auto repair or auto maintenance appointment at our Columbia, SC auto repair shop.  At Sanford’s Automotive Service, we ALWAYS do it right the first time!

How to Replace a Thermostat by the Columbia SC Auto Repair Pro

Among auto repairs a driver will commonly face is replacing a bad thermostat.  If you are comfortable performing mechanic work yourself, we can walk you through replacing a bad thermostat yourself.  This will only require about 30 minutes and it is a relatively cheap part to replace. It will be a simple task if you just follow basic auto safety tips and this how to tutorial.

For this job you will want to have a flat head screwdriver, nut driver, or ratchet to use for removing hose clamps and probably the thermostat housing bolts.  Double-check to ensure you have the proper sized tools too.  You will also need to have some work rags as well as a drip pan for the fluids. You might want to have a little extra coolant on hand too. It is important to replace any fluids lost during the repair.  A flat scraper may be useful when removing your old gasket as well.  Most important, be sure you have your new thermostat and gasket.

First Step: Thermostat Removal

First you must locate your thermostat. They are commonly found on top of the radiator hose.  Occasionally we see one mounted on the bottom. Place the drip pan under the work area to catch fluids that leak when you disconnect things. Use the tools listed above to disconnect your top radiator hose from your engine. Once it is loose, remove it from the engine allowing all drips to fall into the pan beneath. Next remove the thermostat housing bolts. These bolts keep your thermostat securely in place.  With the housing bolts free, remove the housing and lift your thermostat out.

Step Two: New Thermostat Installation

Usually you will find pieces of your old gasket sticking around the area you pulled the thermostat from.  Use a work rag to plug the hole and your flat scraper to scrape the entire old gasket away. This area needs to be as clean as possible before you proceed.  Once done, you will need to set the new gasket in place.  Now install your new thermostat.  Be sure that the power unit is pointing to the block.  Once positioned, replace the housing and the housing bolts removed earlier.  Be sure they have a tight fit. Next, reattach the radiator hose and clamp you disconnected in the beginning. Your last step should be to determine how much coolant you need to replace.  Be sure you add enough to bring the water or coolant level back to the area marking full. 

Step Three: Test your work

It really is just that simple!  Replacing a thermostat is cost efficient and easily done right in your parking spot or driveway.  As the proud owner of an auto repair shop owner, I truly pride myself on educating our customers; not only on the repairs I perform, but on ways you can save money by safely performing basic auto repairs at home. If you ever doubt your work, your abilities to perform auto repairs, or you simply don’t have the time, just bring your car or truck to Sanford’s Automotive Service in Columbia, SC.  We offer superior customer service, total customer satisfaction, and we always do it right the first time. 

Auto Repair Safety Advice with Columbia SC Auto Repair Pro

Performing a number of auto repairs yourself can save you money, but only if you make sure you’re doing it right.   

Many automotive repairs and maintenance tasks can be fixed or repaired by anyone willing to properly research and follow instructions exactly.  There are also many safety aspects that should be remembered.

This information offers advice in steering clear of home auto repair dangers.  Some appear to be common sense, but still are worthy of your attention.

NEVER start on a repair that you do not feel completely comfortable taking on. If you are unsure about the repair, always find a profession mechanic to complete the job. You are better off paying a professional than attempting to repair alone and ultimately creating a bigger problem or, even worse, more damage. Many automotive systems are extremely complex. Repairs sometimes call for considerable skill and expertise, as well as special tools and equipment. A simple mistake can result in damaging expensive electronic components.

Another factor to consider is physical limitations. Replacing or repairing certain components may require heavy lifting, crawling beneath a vehicle, laying or working in uncomfortable, awkward positions, not to mention all of the reaching, pulling, bending, twisting, straining and multiple strenuous activities a body may not be accustomed to.  Use your common sense concerning these things.

Auto repairs need your complete and full attention. DO NOT attempt to perform ANY auto maintenance or auto repair if you are tired, feeling bad, even a little intoxicated, taking any medication or anything which may otherwise impair your motor skills or concentration in any way. 

Other Tips to Keep in Mind

 

• NEVER smoke or create any type of spark while working on ANY fuel system components. This means your fuel filter, fuel pump, carburetor, fuel injectors, and gas tank or fuel lines.

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• Have a fire extinguisher handy for any unexpected accidents. Be sure that the fire extinguisher has a "B" (for use with liquids & grease fires) and "C" (for use in electrical fires) rating.

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• NEVER smoke or allow sparks anyplace near the car battery! This battery contains hydrogen gas that is very volatile. If jump starting, always make the final jumper connection to the engine or chassis. Sparks in the vicinity of the car battery may cause an explosion!

Be sure to check back often for more from the Columbia SC Auto Repair Pro. Sanford’s Automotive Service wants to keep every driver informed, up to date, and SAFELY navigating the road!

Exhaust Problems & Noises - Columbia SC Auto Repair Pro Info

Exhaust noises mean exhaust problems.  And when you have exhaust problems, you need to get them taken care of quick.  Some unresolved exhaust issues could become deadly to your passengers or yourself.   

The first step in solving any auto trouble situation is locating the source.  When your auto repair troubles lie with your exhaust system, there are many tell-tale noises you may be able to use to help diagnose your specific exhaust problem.  Once diagnosed, you can then determine if you need an auto repair shop that offers muffler and exhaust repairs.

One sound you may be hearing while your engine is running is a rattling or buzzing sort of noise. This is at times caused by loose heat shields that are located in the region of your catalytic converter or exhaust pipes. Rust weakens spot welds that are holding the heat shields to the exhaust system. When a shield has gotten loose enough to start vibrating it may create a rattling or buzzing noise that can often be heard through the whole car. There are other noises that may only be able to be detected while running at certain RPMs or only when you are decelerating.  This is attributable to harmonic vibrations.  The vibrations are shaking your exhaust system at a resounding frequency.

Finding loose heat shields can get tricky because they are not always easily visible.  a medium-sized screwdriver can aid in inspecting shields, utilizing it to check for looseness. If you do find a loose spot weld, loose heat shields can be re-secured by re-welding, and in some cases, by installing some clamps. Replacement of a heat shield is recommended if badly rusted or showing other more extensive damage. NEVER remove a loose heat shield without replacing it! These are necessary parts to keep the intense heat away from the car’s floor pan and other sensitive mechanisms in the vicinity.

Another buzzing variety of noise you may hear originating from your exhaust is harmonic resonance. This is frequently seen with high revving four-cylinder engines.  This type of noise is typically loudest when operating at certain RPMs or while accelerating hard, especially if you are with a load.

If your exhaust related noises seem to come from the tailpipe, you need to listen carefully.  If the sound being produced is a whistle or high-pitched hiss, you may have a restriction within your exhaust system.  This restriction causes abnormally high backpressure.  Another issue often associated with this backpressure is the engine lacking high-speed power.  Experiencing reduced fuel mileage is also another indication that your engine is having problems exhaling.

Mufflers and exhaust pipes will all start rusting and get rotted sooner or later.  If your vehicle is or has been exposed to large quantities of winter road salt or if it is often driven for short-trips with heavy stop-and-go driving, you may experience this type of damage to appear sooner. Short trips create a high level of condensation in the exhaust system.  This is because your muffler and pipes are not being allowed time to reach a high enough temperature to evaporate this water. When your muffler is found further from the converter in the back of the vehicle, moisture will pool inside your muffler, which creates rust and erosion from within. As this water combines with sulfur in the exhaust it creates highly corrosive acids that will then begin to eat through the exhaust system’s metal parts.

Mufflers and resonators that are behind your rear axle are typically quite vulnerable to this kind of corrosion.  This is because they usually run a lot cooler than a front-mounted muffler, creating a moisture trap.  They often experience trouble or failure due to internal corrosion.