Sunday, May 19, 2013

Mechanic’s Brake Repair Diagnosis – Auto Repair Tips from Columbia, SC



Your car’s brake system is of paramount importance to your car, truck or other automobile. If you do not recognize the warning signs of faulty brakes, you may find yourself in a dangerous or even fatal situation.


Brake Problems – What it May Sound Like


Brake repair is a serious issue.  If your brakes start emitting squeaking noises, it is time to have a closer look at your brakes. An even more alarming noise you might hear is a scraping or grinding sound. Grinding, scraping and squeaking noises usually indicate the need to find a mechanic or auto repair professional to inspect and probably perform some form of brake repair or brake component replacement.

Brake Problems – Other Warning Signs


There are many things you may notice happening with your auto that can indicate the presence of brake problems. Misaligned brakes can create vibrations in your steering. Misaligned or brakes that are improperly aligned could be a result of improper installation or it is possible that they have shifted by cause of an auto accident. If you continue driving with brakes that are improperly aligned, you are risking yourself and the other drivers sharing the road. A mechanic or auto repair shop can fix this or other brake problems, getting you back behind the wheel safely.

Changes in the feel of the brakes are also a big indicator of trouble. Brakes that are unresponsive, or have a spongy or soft feel to them when you slow or are stopping, point to problems located within the brake system. Brake problems left without proper repair result in larger, more complicated problems. To make certain your brake repairs are safely and properly completed, you should take your auto to a trusted mechanic or reputable auto repair facility. In the Columbia, SC metro area, Sanford’s Automotive Service is a great choice for all brake repair problems you may have!

What Does It All Mean?


When your car’s brakes start emitting worrisome noises or even worse, cause disruption to the proper function of the brake system, you likely need professional brake repair. Squeaking, scraping and grinding noises are often signs that the brake pads, and in some instances, the rotors, need to be replaced. Other signs of brake trouble can often be caused by worn, cracked or otherwise damaged brake linings. Sometimes these types of trouble can be a result of air in your brake lines. 

Because of the seriousness of brake problems and the importance of safety, all brake repairs should be handled by a well trained mechanic or auto repair shop experienced in brake repair. If you are particularly knowledgeable regarding auto repairs, and have adequate knowledge of the make and model of vehicle, brake repairs could be done yourself. NEVER drive with brake repairs unless you feel completely safe driving with a repair you have had done or completed yourself. 

You should always be confident that capable hands have performed your brake repairs because it could be a matter of life and death.

Sunday, May 5, 2013

When the Car Won’t Start – No Spark, No Compression

There are few things as frustrating as getting into a car that won’t start.  Even more irritating is when your engine cranks and STILL will not start!  Before you hit an auto repair shop, let’s examine one issue you may be having. An educated auto owner is better equipped to understand and ask questions about what auto repairs their mechanic or auto repair shop technician advises. 

All engines require satisfactory fuel pressure, a precisely timed spark and regular compression.  If your vehicle’s engine cranks but doesn’t start, you are likely to be experiencing difficulty with one of these.

Engine Cranks – No Spark

Check the spark plug wires.  If they are cracked, wet, or burned it could be causing difficulty with the spark, creating a problem starting the car. Also check that the internal resistance does not exceed specifications, as this will cause the same problem.

You also need to examine the spark plugs.  When you remove the spark plugs, if they are wet they are either not firing or the engine is flooded.  If the plugs’ electrodes have been contaminated with deposits, this can allow the spark to ground before jumping the gap, causing the plugs to misfire.  This will make the vehicle hard to start and cause it to run poorly once started.

If there are cracks or carbon tracks on your rotor or inside the distributor cap, this can be causing problems.  Issues of this nature will allow your spark to short out to ground before ever reaching the spark plugs.

You may be dealing with a bad distributor pickup or faulty crankshaft position sensor. This is what sends the pulse signal to the ignition module or PCM.  Without this, there is no trigger for the ignition coils therefore, the car won’t start.

Another issue that you could have is a defective ignition module.  Since the ignition module is responsible for the firing of the ignition coils, a faulty one can create problems with starting and/or stalling. If you’re having a hard time starting the car, problems with sudden stalling, especially when the engine is hot, you may need to have the ignition module checked. 

Bad ignition coils can affect different autos in different ways.  Its purpose is to create a high voltage that fires your spark plugs.  On vehicles that have a distributor, a bad ignition coil prevents sparking at all of your spark plugs.  If you have a coil-on-plug or distributor-less ignition system, having a bad coil only affects one or two cylinders. While this can create some problems getting the car started, it will be able to run on the remaining cylinders once started.

Engine Cranks – No Compression

Take a look at the timing belt or chain.  A failure or breaking of the belt or chain keeps valves from opening.  Not only will the engine not run, you need to be sure that there are no other damages like bent valves that occurred due to the breakage.

When the engine starts but dies within a couple of minutes, you may have a plugged catalytic convertor.  When the catalytic convertor becomes obstructed, it creates restrictions that then cause your exhaust backpressure to accumulate.

If you have an overhead cam engine, check the camshaft.  If your engine overheats too badly it will warp the head, in turn seizing up the camshaft.  

As a Columbia, SC auto repair shop owner I want to inform drivers (and potential customers) about what their car troubles are and why they happen.  If you have car questions or need to schedule an auto repair or maintenance appointment in the greater Columbia, SC area, Sanford’s is happy to make you their newest loyal customer!

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Fuel Problems - Engine Cranks - Car Won’t Start! Auto Repair Tips




There may be little as frustrating as a car that won’t start.  Even worse is an engine that cranks but STILL won’t start!  Before you head off to the auto repair shop, let’s take a look at what one of the problems could be.  An informed car owner is much better prepared to deal with a mechanic or auto repair shop when you understand where your problems lie.

To start, your engine requires sufficient fuel pressure, an accurately timed spark and normal compression.  If your car or truck engine cranks, but will not start, you are likely having trouble in one of these areas.

NO FUEL – Engine Cranks, No Fuel Getting Through

A faulty or bad fuel pump could be the culprit.  Your fuel pump should engage for a moment when the key is turned on to start the car.  If you do not hear a light buzz sound when the ignition key is turned, fuel is likely not making it to the engine. You should also look under the car to inspect your fuel lines. Fuel lines that are plugged up or pinched off can stop fuel from properly circulating through the system. 

Another culprit could be your fuel pump relay. When the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump relay gets energized by PCM, routing power to the fuel pump.

Wiring could be another issue.  There is a hard to reach connector on top of the fuel tank that should be checked.  Open wiring anywhere within the fuel pump’s wiring circuit can cause a no fuel to your engine issue.

Although it may sound simple, make sure there is actually fuel in the tank.  It is not uncommon for the fuel gauge to malfunction or even stop working entirely.  Contaminated gas, or bad gas, can also cause problems.  If this sort of auto problem arises just after filling your tank, you may want to consider that the gas is the problem.

A clogged or plugged fuel filter is another problem with a fairly simple remedy. Replacing the fuel filter may take care of the problem, but if rust is in your fuel tank, you may also have to get the whole fuel tank cleaned or replaced.

The fuel pressure regulator controls the fuel pressure into the injectors.  This is crucial in starting the car because it maintains the proper balance of air and fuel.  If you have a leaky fuel pressure regulator, you may need to have an auto repair shop or mechanic replace it. 

If you have no power to the fuel injectors at all when the ignition key is turned on, you need to determine why.  The PCM grounds one side of the injector circuit in order to pulse the injectors.  A bad PCM driver circuit, malfunctioning fuel injector relay, no signal reaching the PCM from your cam position sensor or crank position sensor, or even a blown fuse can be to blame.

If none of the above seems to be the problem, you may be experiencing a major vacuum leak. This could be due to an open EGR valve. This can also be caused by a disconnected PCV valve or vacuum hose, either of which may create a significant vacuum leak, allowing a high volume of air to suck into your engine. Vacuum leaks disrupt the air and fuel mixture, causing the engine to idle roughly if it runs or making it hard to start at all. 

Next time we’ll take a look at the other reasons your car or truck may crank but still not start.  As a Columbia, SC auto repair shop owner I want to inform drivers (and potential customers) about what their car troubles are and why they happen.  If you have car questions or need to schedule an auto repair or maintenance appointment in the greater Columbia, SC area, Sanford’s is happy to make you their newest loyal customer!

Friday, April 12, 2013

When the Car Won’t Start – By a Pro Mechanic in Columbia SC


 
When the car won’t start, it could be due to a number of things.  The first thing you should do is start to narrow down where your problem may lie.  It doesn’t necessarily take an auto repair professional to get your issue diagnosed or taken care of. 

The Basics
Before you head off to an auto repair shop, you should first understand as much as you can about your problem.  In the most basic description, your car starts because the key turns, creating voltage flow from the battery through the ignition switch, a safety switch, and then to the solenoid or starter relay.  The solenoid or starter relay then routes more power from the battery to the starter, which in turn cranks the engine.  At this point the starter motor spins and pushes the starter drive gear, engaging the flywheel and cranking the engine.

NO-CRANK, NO-START – What is going on?

When the car responds with no crank and no start, there are many common culprits that you will want to check.  To start, a low battery charge or bad battery cables or connections could be to blame.  You should check the battery’s voltage and recharge it or jumpstart the car if the voltage is too low.  You should also inspect the battery cables and connections on both ends.  If there is excessive corrosion on the battery terminals you should clean it off and re-attach the connections securely. 
The next thing to check is the starter relay and solenoid.  Check the voltage, inspect the connections and tighten any necessary wiring issues.  If a relay shows a charge but fails to “click” when you turn the key, you should replace the starter relay. 
If none of these are at fault, the starter itself may have gone bad.  Most auto parts retailers will test the starter, but you will have to remove it first.  If you are mechanically inclined, you may opt to jump the battery voltage directly to the starter to determine if it will spin. 
Another issue you may be dealing with is damaged or broken teeth on the flywheel or a bad starter drive.  To check on this one, you will have to have the starter out of the car.  Inspect the drive gear for damages, as well as the flywheel teeth. 
Yet another thing you may need to check is the ignition switch.  If voltage is not reaching the solenoid or starter relay when the key is turned, look for an open P/N switch, brake switch or clutch pedal switch.  This can help in determining if the ignition switch needs to be replaced.  If you have an open P/N switch, Brake Pedal switch, or clutch pedal switch, you will need to bypass the switch with a jumper wire to check if the engine will crank.  You could also use a test light or voltmeter to determine if there is voltage passing through the switch when the key is turned on. 
If you still haven’t found your problem, check that the engine has not seized entirely.  An engine can be checked using a socket and long handle; see if the engine is able to be turned by hand.  If it cannot, your engine is locked and you have a much larger issue on your hands.  Internal engine damage or bearing failure could be to blame in this case.  If the engine has not seized, you may still suffer from engine hydrolock.  This is caused by a leaking head gasket that allows coolant to seep out.  Remove your spark plugs to check for leaked coolant.  If the engine will not crank with the spark plugs out, you may have a closer look at the possibility that the engine is hydrolocked.
While a vast number of auto problems can be to blame for a car that won’t start, this should help you in determining some of the most frequent issues auto owners face.  As an auto repair professional, I know that getting necessary repairs can be a big unexpected expense.  We hope this information will help you in finding your trouble and avoiding any unnecessary auto repair bills.